Week 8a - Goodbye to The South

Week 8a – Up to Edale

 Only a short blog this week, covering three days from Uttoxeter to Edale.

 This section was always going to be less than thrilling, just a straight trog north across yet more rolling Staffordshire farmland, albeit with an all too brief excursion into the beauties of the Dove Valley to arrive at Edale.

 Day one, Uttoxeter to Thorpe was a wet trog through knee high soaking pasture (wet feet in the first 10 yards) interspersed by farm tracks and navigating the A50.  However, what would otherwise have been a particularly tedious day was saved by the local farmers erecting but then not maintaining big stiles and the thundering arrival of several herds of very belligerent and frightening cattle.

I used to call the Offa’s Dyke path the “route of a thousand stiles”, this dubious accolade has now been passed on to the Limestone Way (irritatingly only signposted north to south) as it runs between Uttoxeter and Thorpe.

Most stiles are simple affairs, one or two steps and a low bar.  The ones north of Uttoxeter were monsters, two huge steps and a couple of bars, the average height was about 4’!  Normally stiles on this scale have a separate dog gate to allow canine passage, not these, Arthur had to climb then jump over, not an easy task when there’s a pack of murderous bovines heading straight towards us.

After the aggravation north of Uttoxeter, for day two we had a lovely time strolling along the banks of the River Dove, through Dovedale.  The sun shone, the birds sang, the river cascaded and the limestone soared in cliffs and spires.  It was a perfect antidote to the miseries of the previous day. 

 The third final day of this section and what I’ve begun to think of as “The Southern Half” of this trip was another longish day of farm tracks, bridleways and small roads; many, many miles of easy walking across the rolling limestone hills of the Derbyshire Peak District.  The predominant rock here is Carboniferous Limestone, last seen in the Mendips and the landscape is very similar, rolling hills covered in rich pastures divided by miles of white, dry stone walls.  These hills are also split by deep valleys, at least one major gorge and have some serious cave systems.

 However the day’s walking left no memory except for the very impressive Miller’s Dale viaduct (now only carrying bridle and foot paths), the banality of the day ended abruptly however as I crested the Mam Tor Pass, below lay the Edale valley and beyond Kinder Scout, start of The Pennine Way, gateway to the mountains and The North.

The huge double viaduct at Miller’s Dale

 I’ve a very soft spot for Edale and Kinder, was where I started my adventures in the mountains, arriving in Edale and sitting in the Nags Head was a bit like walking into an old comfortable memory, although with stiffer knees.  After two months of walking the South West Cost, Offa’s Dyke and the pastoral wilds of the midlands I felt like I’d come home, technically I’m not half way yet but it feels like I’ve reached it; The South is behind me, moors and mountains stretch ahead it’s going to be great.

The Edale Valley and Kinder Scout Plateau, start of the Pennine Way

 Edale also proved to be a very social place, with not one but two sets of visitors to our expedition.  Carne Burke tirned up as a complete surprise to Sandra at about 9am after a long and unlikely journey from Blackpool.  After a couple of cups of tea we adjourned to the pub where we met Angela and Terry Childs who drove down from near Derby to see us and have lunch.  It was great to see you all, thanks for making the effort, we had a great time.

 I’m not sure when the next blog post will be because tomorrow, Monday, I’m retracing my lost youth as I begin to backpack my way north along The Pennine Way.

Start of The Pennine Way

 Here is the week and trip totals, not much more than last week as it’s only for three days.

Total for3 days :-              46 Miles               4045 Feet of Ascent,       94154 Paces,                     21 Hours of Walking.

Walk Total to date:-        563 Miles            59,711 Feet of Ascent,   1,234,606 Paces,              252 Hours of Walking.

Land’s End to John O’Groats walk 45 % completed.